KIMONO OBI

The Japanese kimono obi is a traditional decorative cloth worn around the middle of a kimono.

Introduction to Obi

More people the world over are recognising that Japanese traditional arts are too lovely to be left behind in the rush towards the 21st century. As Japan races forward, technologically and economically, we tend to forget its older image of picturesque teahouses and thatched roofs. Yet the design principles and philosophy behind traditional creations have not changed.

For several decades now, Japanese women have found Western dress more practical, comfortable and economical than traditional Japanese kimono and obi attire. The trousseau of fine heirloom obi is no longer a part of modern Japanese women's lives. The decline in the kimono industry in Japan has resulted in fewer obis being produced each year.


A young Japanese woman wearing a furisode kimono with a matching Obi.

As a fine obi becomes scarce, many of the best obis are considered collector's items. The most rare and expensive obi is the maru obi. Vintage maru obi is most valuable, as the patina of the gold thread resembles that of an antique tapestry. Newer maru obi, while it is still beautifully designed, does not have the lustre of the older maru obi, perhaps because of the use of synthetic material in combination with silk.

You will be paying top dollar for a high quality obi at antique shops in Japan. Some large department stores hold clearance sales several times a year. Expect to pay several hundred dollars for a used obi, while a new obi can cost several thousand dollars.

HISTORY OF JAPANESE OBI

Traditional clothing of the Edo period, (1600-1868), included the kimono and obi as we know them today. The obi did not, however, become a prominent part of a woman’s ensemble until the mid Edo period. It was then that designers, weavers and dyers all focused their talent on creating a longer, wider and more elaborate obi. Obi measurement was then standardised to 360cm long by 30cm wide.

Edo fashion was influenced by the design and style that courtesans and entertainers wear. Women of the samurai class continued to wear the simpler kosode kimono, tied together with an obi made of braided cords. Outside the samurai class, women experimented with a more elaborate kimono - the furisode, which is often seen on the Kabuki stage. Characterised by long, flowing sleeves, the furisode kimono was accented by a large, loosely tied obi.

For many years, the obi bow was tied either at the front or on the side. By the mid-Edo period, the obi bow was tied in the back position. It was said that this style started in the mid-1700s when a Kabuki actor, imitating a young girl, came on stage with his obi tied in the back. Another reason that the back position became more acceptable was that the sheer bulk of the wider obi became too cumbersome to be positioned in the front of the kimono.

The Meiji era, (1868-1912) witnessed a revolution in the textile industry with the advent of electric weaving looms and chemical dying techniques from the West. During this time, a woman's kimono ceased to be worn in the free-flowing style of the earlier days. The new fashion was to tuck the kimono at the waist to adjust the length of the kimono to the woman's height. These tucks and folds were visible and became part of the art of tying the obi.

JAPANESE OBI WEAVES, DYES & STICHES

The vast majority of obi produced in Japan today comes from a district in Kyoto known as Nishijin. Nishijin has been the centre of the Japanese textile industry since the 15th century. Nishijin is renowned for its brocade, twill and gauze production. In the late 1800’s, jacquard loom was introduced to replace draw loom.

The high quality brocade produced by the Nishijin artisans is known as “nishiki”, which literally means "beautiful colour combination". Nishiki is characterised by the lavish use of gold and silver threads to make patterns of flowers, birds and traditional geometric designs. Another style of obi produced in Nishijin is “tsuzure” or tapestry. Both brocade and tapestry obis are the most ornate and expensive of all obis.

Lightweight obi is made using an open weave technique. The resulting a gauze-like material, commonly referred as “karami ori”, is worn in warm weather or with a casual kimono. Another distinctive silk weave popular in the summer is the Hakata obi, which is named after the area in Kyushu where it originated. Hakata obi is characterised by a series of woven stripes.

An unlined obi or kimono is termed “hitoe”, meaning "single layer". A double layer obi or kimono, on the other hand, is known as “hara-awase”. Any design or weave, which reflects a Chinese influence, is called “kara ori”.

In addition to weaving, other techniques may be employed to enhance the design of an obi or a kimono. These include stencilling and hand painting, gold and silver leaf imprints, and embroidery.

Japanese embroidery consists of several different stitches, primarily satin, split and couching stitches. Couching stitch is much longer than the other two stiches. Cotton thread used in couching may be covered in gold or silver foil to create a luxurious design. A variation on the French knot may also be used to add depth and colour to an obi or a kimono.

Some obi may have embroidered kanji characters on one end. These kanji characters may represent the signature of the shop or the obi designer. Sometimes, the family crest of the shop owner may also be embroidered along with the shop name.

JAPANESE OBI TYPES

In general, the obi used depends on the type of kimono worn in any given occasion. Most formal are the metallic or colour brocade and tapestry, followed by dyed silk, woven silk, and non-silk obi fabrics. Brocade, tapestry and dyed silk obi are used for formal wear with the finest kimono, while obi made from raw silk, cotton or wool is used for everyday wear.

Maru Obi
The maru obi is the most formal obi, with both sides fully patterned along its length. The classic maru obi measures 33cm wide. Maru obi with narrower width can be custom made for a petite client.

The maru obi is usually made of elaborately patterned brocade or tapestry, which is often richly decorated with gold threads. It was most popular during the Meiji and Taisho eras. However, due to its exorbitant cost and weight (which makes it uncomfortable to wear), the maru obi is rarely worn today, except for traditional Japanese weddings and other very formal occasions.

Fukuro Obi
The fukuro obi is a slightly less formal style than the maru obi. The fukuro obi was created in the late 1920s. The fukuro obi is made with a fine brocade or tapestry, which is patterned along 60% of its length on one side. The back of the fukuro obi may be lined with a plain silk or brocade, making it less expensive and less bulky to wear than the maru obi.

Even though the fukuro obi is not as quite formal as the maru obi, the fukuro obi can be used for formal occasions. The length and width of the fukuro obi is the same as the maru obi. Thus, fukuro obi can hardly be distinguished from maru obi when tied over the kimono.

Nagoya Obi
The most convenient obi today is the nagoya obi. First produced in the city of Nagoya at the end of the Taisho era (1912-26), the Nagoya obi is lighter and simpler than the fukuro or maru obi. The nagoya obi is characterised by a portion of the obi being pre-folded and stitched in half. The narrow part wraps around the waist, while the wider part forms the bow of the obi tie. When worn, a nagoya obi is tied with a single fold, while a maru or a fukuro obi, being longer, is tied with a double fold. Most nagoya obi is less expensive a maru or fukuro obi. Nonetheless, its design can be stunning.

Hanhaba Obi
The hanhaba obi is thus termed, as it has half the width of other obis. The hanhaba obi is a casual obi for wear at home, under a haori (kimono coat), with children's kimono or with summer yukata.

The fabric and design of the hanhaba obi are simpler to reflect its use for daily wear. Some of the more ornate hanhaba obi is made from a former maru obi.

Children's hanhaba obi is often in very bright colours. It is often made with stencilling technique, rather than an elaborate embroidery or weaving.

There is also plain black obi, which is often made with the finest silk woven with barely discernable pattern or design. Sombre, yet lovely, plain black obi is worn as part of the mourning attire.

In a traditional Japanese wedding ceremony, a bride will wear a white obi. In the Edo era, a widow may dress in all white to signify that she will not remarry. Thus, some very old white obi may not have been used for weddings.

MODERN USES FOR KIMONO OBI

Be it Christmas, someone's birthday or you want to brighten up you house, an obi makes an ideal way to enjoy some traditional Japanese style and culture in every day life. Here are just a few ideas for how you can decorate with kimono obi.

Source : japanese culture.com.au